Colonial Williamsburg and the Historic Triangle

In September I made a trip to Williamsburg, VA, the historic Colonial-era capital of Virginia. Three important sites are tucked onto this peninsula along a 23-mile parkway, forming the "Historic Triangle":

• Jamestown, the first successful English settlement in America;
• Yorktown, the decisive battlefield of the Revolutionary War; and
• Williamsburg, which has been renovated into a historically-accurate theme park of the Colonial period.

This beautiful area provides a perfect setting for history geeks and photographers.

Historic Timeline
The English first tried to settle America in 1585 but the colony mysteriously disappeared within 5 years from Roanoke Island in present-day North Carolina. The second attempt in 1607 at Jamestown established a fortified settlement that struggled to become viable until the "golden weed," tobacco, became a cash crop of great value in Europe.

During the 1600's the colony gradually expanded despite setbacks that included wars with the Native American tribes in the region, and in 1699 the capital moved to the nearby town of Williamsburg.

As the capital city of the richest of the colonies, Williamsburg was the location of a number of significant events in Colonial America, including the fiery debates in the Virginia House of Burgesses that led up to the Revolution. Also, the College of William and Mary was established in 1693, the second-oldest university in America, whose famed alumni include Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe, John Marshall, and Henry Clay.

It was during the Revolutionary War that the capital was moved fifty miles inland to Richmond in 1780 because it was less vulnerable to British attack, and Williamsburg began a long slow decline.

But first it would host the camps of George Washington and French General Rochambeau as they prepared to lay siege to British General Cornwallis at Yorktown in 1781. Cornwallis had been directed to build a fortified port after a disastrous southern campaign in the Carolinas, but found himself bottled up instead when a French fleet scored a rare victory over the British to control the Chesapeake Bay.

When Cornwallis surrendered his 7,000 men on October 19th the war was effectively over.

Touring the Area
Colonial Williamsburg, restored in large part due to generous contributions from John D. Rockefeller, Jr. in the 1920's and 1930's, is the most picturesque and interesting of the three locations. The central part of town is closed to vehicular traffic and populated by re-enactors and living historians. Several buildings including the statehouse were rebuilt from the bare ground.

Though this might smack of crass modern commercialization, it actually creates a very engaging experience. The history of the buildings comes alive as the actors portray events and people of the period, and many of the historians are passionately interested in recreating authentic Colonial life (and imparting that knowledge to visitors).

The state of Virginia has created similar centers at Jamestown and Yorktown, but they are smaller (especially Yorktown) and have far less elaborate shows. These centers sit next to the historic sites which are managed by the federal park service.

The Final Word
I learned a lot over the course of two days. I would recommend that visitors focus upon Colonial Williamsburg, especially if the weather is good, spending at least a full day there and watching the outdoor street theater in the afternoon. Buses make a continual loop through the area.

The College of William and Mary is also still a functioning campus sitting immediately to the west of the Williamsburg Historic Area, and you can stroll its grounds.

Jamestowne Settlement and Yorktown Victory Center are worth half a day each and are about 20-30 minutes by car. There are free buses as well. If you have the time, you may want to visit the actual Yorktown battlefield and take a ranger-led tour, or walk through the picturesque Yorktown landing at night.

Getting There
Situated on a narrow peninsula, there are only two ways to get to Williamsburg. You can come from the direction of Richmond and travel southeast down the peninsula, or you can start from the other end by Norfolk, either coming up from North Carolina or down the Maryland Eastern Shore. I had planned to tour Norfolk as well but didn't realize it was about 45 minutes away.

I unfortunately also got caught in Friday afternoon traffic leaving the Washington, DC area, as I wasn't able to leave work before lunchtime. Though DC and Richmond are only 100 miles apart, if the Union Army had been fighting weekend traffic heading south on I-95 in addition to the Confederates, the Civil War would still be ongoing. What should have been a 3-4 hour journey to Williamsburg from Baltimore turned into an ordeal more than 6 hours long.

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Shih Tzu-Maltese Puppies

Just before Halloween my sister's dog, a Mal-Shi (Shih Tzu-Maltese mix) named Zoey, had a litter of three puppies.

My sister got Zoey about 2-1/2 years ago from a breeder in Missouri, because she wanted a small dog that would not shed and would be relatively hypoallergenic (her husband has allergies).

This Fall she decided to breed Zoey with a Maltese and the resulting puppies were just starting to take their wobbly first steps at 3 weeks old when I was visiting over Thanksgiving.

A Puppy Birthing Experience
Here's her explanation of why both she and Zoey were "freaked out" at the birth of the first puppy:

Because I wasn't expecting it so soon and she had it on the couch instead of the whelping box I'd prepared for her so I had to pick her up from the couch, with this sac hanging out of her and put her in the box (right next to the couch, luckily).

Then she didn't seem to know what to do and the pup looked like it may be dead (they don't move until the sac is removed and they are licked or rubbed to "wake them up" and stimulate breathing).

She didn't start licking, and I'd read you need to get them out within a minute, so I had to tear open the sac with my hands, use a bulb syringe to clear fluid from its mouth and nose and rub the pup's back with a towel.

Good thing I watched puppy birthing videos earlier this week in preparation!

Anyway, for each of the three pups, I was holding my breath until it "came alive" as I think stillborn pups are not all that uncommon. With the third one Zoey wanted to do it all herself but I couldn't see if she was getting the sac off quickly enough, so it was scary too, but all ended well.

Zoey As A Mommy
While I was there Zoey was a very attentive mother, nursing the puppies almost continually and alert to any whimpers from her babies even from the next room, and licking them often. She also ate their poop -- the theory I've heard is that mother dogs do this to keep the den clean and lessen the chance predators will find them.

Sad to say, motherhood has been hard on Zoey. She was noticeably thinner than prior to her pregnancy and her coat was less glossy as she had become much pickier about her diet.

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(Part of the) Lunar Eclipse

In the wee hours of this morning there was a total lunar eclipse, which was on the same day as the winter solstice (the day when the sun is the lowest in the northern skies, marking the beginning of winter).

According to the Washington Post, these events hadn't coincided in almost 2,000 years, and on the spur of the moment I decided to try to capture pictures of the eclipse.

I was ill-prepared as I hadn't realized this was going to happen and so I missed the most interesting pictures, when the Earth's shadow ate across the moon, finally leaving a dramatic orange lunar orb. The cold 20-degree weather didn't help either.

My early pictures were either overexposed or blurry because I made the mistake of thinking I should use a long exposure, when what I needed was to use a large aperture and a fast shutter speed.

Finally, about 4 a.m. I found that by using a 200 mm telephoto lens with a 2X extender, I got decent shots at an aperture of f/5.6 and a shutter speed of about 1/320 second, and I made the following video of the time-lapsed pictures as the moon emerged again from the shadow:

The next total eclipse isn't due until June 15, 2011. If the skies are clear I may try photographing it again.

Here are the dates according to NASA for eclipses in 2011:

• 2011 Jan 04: Partial Solar Eclipse
• 2011 Jun 01: Partial Solar Eclipse
• 2011 Jun 15: Total Lunar Eclipse
• 2011 Jul 01: Partial Solar Eclipse
• 2011 Nov 25: Partial Solar Eclipse
• 2011 Dec 10: Total Lunar Eclipse

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2nd Battle of Bull Run: 148th Anniversary

Manassas, VA, just 30 miles from downtown Washington, DC, was the site of two very different major Civil War battles spaced a little more than a year apart. This past weekend was the 148th anniversary of the second of these battles, called Second Manassas.

I went to Manassas on two different days to tour Manassas National Battlefield Park, see Civil War demonstrations, and walk around Manassas Old Town several miles away.

Two Battles On This Field
In the First Battle of Bull Run in July 1861 (called First Manassas by the Southern side), green, unbloodied armies on both sides were staggered by the brutal reality of war and suffered 900 killed and 4,600 casualties between them.

What initially looked like a Union victory turned instead into a rout of the Northerners, with the Federals fleeing headlong back to the defenses of Washington.

A year later, the Union army would be baited into fighting a much larger battle on roughly the same ground.

At Second Manassas, Federal and Confederate troops would slug it out grimly toe to toe, with 2,000 of 7,000 troops engaged falling within a single multi-hour exchange of broadsides in the open fields at Brawner's Farm at the opening of the battle.

The 22,000 total casualties at Second Manassas would be a bloody prelude to the carnage at Antietam just 2 weeks later, when 23,000 Americans would fall in a single day.

Manassas National Battlefield
First Manassas is easier to understand than the second battle, because it was largely concentrated on Henry Hill, where the Visitor Center is sited today. From those heights you can see almost all of the places where the action took place as the Union troops attacked in a flanking action from the north along Sudley Road.

It was on Henry Hill, named after the Henry family whose farm was located here and whose house lay in the thick of the action, that Confederate General Thomas J. Jackson would earn the sobriquet by which he would be known to history.

As Confederate troops wavered and retreated under the Union onslaught, General Barnard Bee of South Carolina shouted before being killed, "There stands Jackson like a stone wall! Rally behind the Virginians!"

A giant equestrian statue of Stonewall Jackson stands today near the spot where his lines faced the Federals and stemmed the tide, leading to ultimate Southern victory on the battlefield.

Second Manassas
In contrast, the action of Second Manassas stretched over a 10-15 mile area, with the first engagement occurring at Brawner's Farm about 5 miles west of Henry Hill.

It was here that Jackson's troops attacked Federal troops moving toward Washington on August 28th after Jackson's raid on the federal depot at Manassas Junction abruptly forced Union General John Pope to pull his lines back from the Rappahannock River.

Pope mistakenly thought he had cornered a retreating Jackson and poured troops into attacking strong defensive positions, while ignoring the arrival of a large second Confederate army under James Longstreet.

On August 30th Longstreet's army attacked, and only stubborn Federal rearguard actions saved the Union army from the ignominious flight of the year before, or perhaps even total destruction.

Touring the Battlefield
Visitors are supposed to check in at the Visitor Center on Henry Hill to pay the low $3 park fee. It's a great place to get an overall understanding of the battle and the weapons and tactics, though the focus is largely upon the first battle.

There is a large topographical map in the small museum with lights showing the troop movements at First Manassas, and an excellent 45-minute film that explains the circumstances around both conflicts.

The topographical map of the second battle, however, is located at Brawner Farm, where Second Manassas started about 5 miles west of the Henry Hill Visitor Center.

From the windows of the Visitor Center, you can peer out at the reconstructed Henry House which was blown to bits during the first battle, and see the line of guns where the Federal artillery battery faced Stonewall Jackson's troops.

Visitors can take self-guided tours along the many walking trails or in their cars, or take guided tours with park rangers.

Civil War Events
Infantry, cavalry, and artillery demonstrations were held at Brawner's Farm during the Second Manassas anniversary, and it was here that I learned that it is National Park Service policy not to hold large-scale re-enactments on Park Service land (with rare exceptions).

The centennial re-enactment of the First Battle of Bull Run in 1961 resulted in a number of injuries, large amounts of trash, and damage to the grounds, so policy was changed to treat these battlefields as memorials -- hallowed ground -- with only small-scale tactical demonstrations. The Second Manassas re-enactment was actually held somewhere in Pennsylvania this year.

It was sobering to read the plaque at Brawner's Farm a hundred yards from the demonstrations, and realize it was placed along the line where long rows of Union dead lay fallen in their ranks after point-blank exchanges with the Confederates.

I've attended the re-enactment at the Battle of Cedar Creek held on the actual battlefield, but apparently that park is owned and maintained by private non-profit organizations.

Old Town Manassas
Manassas' significance during the Civil War was a result of its location across the junction between two railroad lines, making it an important supply point and the fastest way to travel to the Shenandoah Valley to the west and Confederate capital Richmond to the south.

Federal movements to seize Manassas Junction led to the first battle, and Jackson's destruction of the Federal supply base at Manassas precipitated the second. (The Confederates had abandoned Manassas earlier in the year.)

Today the city's visitor center is located in a 1914 rail station and commuters still catch the train from this complex. Though the Civil War-era buildings are mostly gone, you can walk around the picturesque Old Town and visit the Manassas Museum across the street.

The Final Word
About 20% of the men who served in the Civil War died (though two-thirds from disease), and countless others were maimed. I find it incredible that these men would march into battle against those kinds of odds, using tactics 20 years out of date against newly deadly weaponry.

In many of the pitched battles, a third of the men on both sides were casualties.

At First Manassas, they went in as innocents, but by the time of the Second Battle of Bull Run, they knew full well the horrors of war, yet stood steadfast anyway.

Whether it was because they believed in a cause or simply had no other choice, that kind of bravery has to be respected.

Getting There
Manassas National Battlefield Park occupies 5,100 acres to the north of I-66. Take exit 47B north (Sudley Road/SR 234) and follow the sign to the Henry Hill Visitor Center to start your tour.

Much of the park runs along the axis of US 29 (Lee Highway), the former Warrenton Turnpike which led to Washington and along which General Pope's men were traveling when attacked by Stonewall Jackson at the beginning of Second Manassas. Brawner's farm lies just north of US 29 at the western end of the park.

The large park has many trails for hikers and horseback riders.

Old Town Manassas is about 6 miles south of the park. You can follow Sudley Road to either Grant Avenue or Centreville Road (Route 28) and from there to the Amtrak train station where the visitor center is located. 4-hour parking is available on weekdays in several lots or the parking garage (the limit primarily affects commuters taking the train), and is unrestricted nights and weekends.

Manassas National Battlefield Park
12521 Lee Highway
Manassas, Virginia 20109

Henry Hill Visitor Center
6511 Sudley Road

Manassas, VA 20109

Hours of Operation:
The park is open daily from dawn to dusk.
The Visitor Center is open daily from 8:30am to 5:00pm.
 Closed on Thanksgiving and December 25.

Fees:
3-Day Pass: $3 (children under 16 are free)
Annual Pass: $20
Annual Pass for All NPS Parks: $80

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Victoria Gastro Pub in Columbia, MD

I don't know why I haven't written more extensively about Victoria Gastro Pub in Columbia, MD, one of my favorite restaurants. Maybe it's because I often go on the spur of the moment, and with its dark interiors it's not easy to get good pictures there.

This is a restaurant that has excellent food and a creative touch, with the small plates and appetizers particularly worthy of note. Located halfway between the Baltimore and DC beltways, this restaurant is local to me but I'd be willing to travel to dine there.

It's a great place to get very good food and drink in a convivial atmosphere.

So Good It's Bad For You
I'll start with the poutine, my guilty pleasure. As near as I can tell their take on this Canadian comfort food is unique and a bit more refined than its progenitor, but all I can say is it's too darn good to be good for me.

Poutine is simply french fries with cheese curds and gravy, but Victoria Gastro Pub has pushed each of the elements upscale: they use duck fat fries, Gruyere cheese, duck confit, duck gravy, and sprinkle some spring onions on top.

(I just made myself hungry.)

I once estimated that this combination probably runs at least 1000 calories, or half my daily intake, since it's really intended for 2-3 people, but I order it every time I go.

Appetizers
The menu varies somewhat, and some of my favorites seem to be either seasonal or temporary. Victoria's strength definitely lies in their appetizers and entree salads, which are flavorful, creative, and often large enough to make a meal in themselves.

I love their Prince Edward Island Mussels, where a beer-based broth is accented with garlic, cilantro, orange peel, and chili de arbol. This combination provides a nice kick to the steamed mussels, and is also great to sop up with the bread.

The pork spare ribs in Mongolian BBQ sauce are also pretty good, if you like a hoisin-style sauce. I've liked most of their other appetizers too, and I thought the cold tomato-based gazpacho soup I had there last week was simply phenomenal.

Entree Salads
I'm such a carnivore that I didn't try their entree salads for a while, but I still remember fondly a salad served with medallions of rare-cooked lamb that was fork tender. I don't care as much for the current incarnation that uses seared tuna, though I might try the duck confit version.

Ultimately, these salads are more like a combined meat entree and large salad, and make for a satisfying repast.

Main Entrees
For some reason the main entrees don't stand out quite as much in my mind. The burgers are excellent, though I've found the steak, fish, chicken, and pasta main dishes to be more good than spectacular. Perhaps it's that they come across as a little more mainstream. Even so I've always enjoyed my meal here.

The Beer Club
I'm a light drinker but I should mention that Victoria Gastro Pub has an extensive if pricey selection of beer and wine, with a beer club that offers rewards for systematically sampling their beers from around the world. I've had some very good beer here but don't drink enough to pursue this.

They claim to have 24 beers on tap and over 100 in the bottle.

The Final Word
Victoria Gastro Pub is one of the places I recommend to out-of-town guests, and they consistently love the food. The menu is varied enough that everyone can find something that suits their palate, though I think it's wasted on kids.

Another thing I like is that they serve food even after 10 pm in the bar, making it a spot I can go for great food late at night. As Victoria Gastro Pub's clientele has built I've found it to be more consistently crowded, but I've yet to make a reservation for groups of 3 or less.

But I usually go off-peak and as Victoria Gastro Pub's popularity grows, reservations are probably a good idea, especially on weekend evenings.

Victoria Gastro Pub
8201 Snowden River Parkway [map]
Columbia, MD 21045
(410) 750-1880

Hours:

Lunch: 7 Days a week 11am—5pm

Brunch: Sat. & Sun. 10am—2pm
Dinner: Sun. thru Thu. 5—10pm
Bar Menu 10— 12
Fri. & Sat. 5—11 pm
Bar Menu 11—1 am

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Fort Worth Museum of Science and History

I also visited the Fort Worth Museum of Science and History last month with my nieces. Located in the Fort Worth, TX Cultural District, this is an engaging museum that mostly focuses on getting kids to interact with science.

It surprised me how much all of the kids seemed to enjoy digging for "fossils" (but then again, kids have always liked grubbing around in the dirt) and that we almost couldn't tear my nieces away from some snap-together electrical circuit building kits.

The admission price also gave us access to the National Cowgirl Museum next door, a beautiful but sparsely populated museum dedicated to the independent women of the frontier.

Touring the Museum
We started with the small outdoor area where kids were digging for "dinosaur bones" in the dirt and a simulated stream. The heat was stifling, so their parents waited at tables in the shade.

Fort Worth Children's Museum
Next we went into an area aimed at younger children called the Children's Museum.

The coolest thing here was a cartoon-like giraffe model that must have had some kind of sensor up near the top. When someone stood underneath the giraffe's head, a playful recorded voice would talk to them and then tell them exactly how tall they were.

The kids also enjoyed going into the courtyard to play with the water cannons and other water-related games.

Leonado da Vinci Exhibit
We next went through a non-permanent exhibit about Leonardo da Vinci. The introductory film was short and disappointing. It mostly just vaguely extolled da Vinci as the quintessential Renaissance Man, whereas I had hoped my nieces would gain an appreciation for his many talents.

But the interactive mock-ups of his inventions (as recreated from his sketchbooks) were interesting to both kids and adults alike. These heavy wooden models were mostly functional, though thankfully that didn't apply to the heavy war machines. :-)

I thought the best part of this section was the interactive arches exhibit.

In one area, kids built a catenary arch (think of the St. Louis Gateway Arch) from small plastic blocks to show how strong and flexible this design is, and then next to it they could build an arched bridge from rubber blocks and walk across it.

Innovation Studios
The museum has four Innovation Studios each aimed at giving children hands-on experiences with arts, crafts, and science experiments. My nieces went into the first one and never made it out again as they got absorbed in building electrical circuits from snap-together kits according to the manuals.

I considered buying them kits from the museum store, but at prices ranging from $40-$80 I decided to hold off since I wasn't sure if this was just a passing fad.

Planetarium
We watched a show in the Planetarium about black holes. While this film was educational, it was probably the least interesting part of the visit because it was somewhat passive, and lacked the interactive nature of many of the other exhibits. We didn't attend any of the IMAX screenings.

Fountain Plaza
In a small area between the two museums, some kids were playing in a jetting fountain with high-pressure water spouting up from holes in the stone. These two kids were having an enormously good time.

The Final Word
The Fort Worth Museum of Science and History is well worth taking kids to if they have any interest at all in science. The interactive exhibits are well thought-out and do a good job of holding their attention.

Adults will probably find some aspects of the museum enjoyable and educational as well.

The National Cowgirl Museum is worth walking through since the price of admission is included. There aren't many exhibits and a good chunk of them are focused on movie cowgirls, but it's a beautiful building with very tasteful pieces. (Taking pictures is prohibited.)

There are a couple of art museums in this complex as well but we didn't have time to visit them.

Fort Worth Museum of Science and History
1600 Gendy St.

Fort Worth, TX 76107
817-255-9300/888-255-9300
Hours: 10 am to 5 pm daily

Related:

• Fort Worth Water Gardens (8/21/10)

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