I found Central to be very good but perhaps a little too well-mannered in its casual French-American fare. I enjoyed my meal but didn't find it all that memorable, particularly at the price. Later that day I would have a much more inspired dinner at Palena.
About Central
Michel Richard's Citronelle is consistently cited as one of the top 5-10 restaurants in Washington, and in 2007 he opened Central on Pennsylvania Avenue, about halfway between the US Capitol building and the White House.
The space is very modern and light, with a blond wood, glass, and steel decor, and I was seated in a nice location where I could observe the action in the kitchen.
The Food
I decided to try the duck rillettes with faux gras, lamb shank, and french fries. The rillettes and "faux gras" appetizers are a signature dish at Central, with the latter being his take on a substitute for fois gras that uses chicken liver and copious amounts of butter. (Thus avoiding the issue of force-feeding geese to produce the engorged livers for fois gras.)
The rillettes are a cross between duck confit and pate, with the shredded duck combined into a paste that makes it a smooth spread, and served as a molded cylinder.
While I liked both the rillettes and faux gras, it was a little too much for a solo diner. The faux gras especially came in a relatively large container for so rich a spread and I only finished half of it.
I ordered the french fries because some people rave over them, but found them frankly uninspiring. While I'm sure they're fresh cut, I found them to have a consistency that reminded me a little too much of mashed potatoes.
The lamb shank was better, but the polenta it was served over was a little mushy too, and the large sprig of rosemary, while attractive, felt like a bit of a waste. The lamb itself was decent but very light on seasoning, cooked in a style that emphasizes the taste of the roasted meat.
I did really enjoy the peach tonic, an airy, dry-tasting concoction of peach juice and seltzer water with just a hint of sweetness.
The Verdict
I'd be willing to give Central another try if in the area but I probably wouldn't reorder any of these dishes. While everything was well-prepared, it just wasn't all that exciting.
The burgers are actually highly recommended and that might be my choice the next time. Other possibilities would be the onion and lardon (bacon) tart; the pied de cochon (pig's feet meat in pastry); or Michel's chocolate bar (formerly known as the kit kat bar) for dessert.
Getting There
Central has a great, "central" location in the Penn Quarter-Federal Triangle Area. They're two blocks west of the Navy Memorial-Archives Metro Station and close to a large number of federal agencies and attractions, including the Smithsonian/National Mall; the Newseum; the Old Post Office Building; and the FBI, IRS, and National Archives.
More Photos
The weather was beautiful for February, a little overcast but in the upper 50's, so I walked around a bit. The Old Post Office Building is across the street from Central:
The interior has been renovated and converted to shops:
You can take an elevator (actually two of them) to the 12-story tower:
From where you can get a good view of Washington DC:
Though mostly you're looking through plexiglass or wire:
Brazilian churrascaria Fogo de Chao's DC location is also next door:
The FBI celebrated its 100th anniversary last year:
FTC headquarters in Federal Triangle has some 1930's artwork:
Union General Winfield Scott Hancock was one of the heroes of Gettysburg; his statue stands at the exit of the Metro Station:
I never figured out what this building was across from the National Archives:
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