I had lunch Thursday at Brasserie Beck, Chef Robert Wiedmaier's Belgian-French bistro in Washington DC. Wiedmaier, who has a Belgian father and American mother and grew up in Germany, also owns the French restaurant Marcel's (the restaurants are named after his sons).
The Food
Although I knew that Brasserie Beck is known for its mussels and Belgian frites, I wanted to try some dishes that were a little more unique to the restaurant.
In general Belgian food seems to be somewhat hearty, especially the dishes I chose. It was all good, but not spectacular. I think the major difference of a high-end restaurant like Brasserie Beck is in the lighter touch when it comes to salt and to the sauces.
I ordered roulade of duck confit (foie gras and duck meat formed into a roll over mashed potatoes), choucrote en crote (pork sausage and sauerkraut in puff pastry), and pear tarte tatin with cinnamon honey ice cream for dessert.
For example, the roulade was less exceptional than the sauce surrounding it, which had a delicate, slightly sweet taste reminiscent of plums. The puff pastry of the choucrote en crote was very good -- thin, light, and perfectly browned -- while the sausage reminded me of a weisswurst with its lighter flavor and consistency.
The pear tarte was probably the best dish, having a lightly caramelized syrup and fanned pear slices.
The Beer
Brasserie Beck is actually best known for its extensive 7-page book of Belgian beers. (They have their own beer sommelier, Bill Catron, who has been knighted by the Belgian Knighthood of the Brewers' Mashstaffs.)
I decided to try Gouden Carolis Noel, which is a dark beer with an intensely spicy aroma. It was too strong for my taste (and rather high alcohol at 11%). Their beers also aren't cheap, mostly ranging from $10-$15 a glass.
The Verdict
While the food at Brasserie Beck was very good, it's not enough to draw me from a distance since I think Cafe de Paris in Columbia, MD near my house is comparable in quality at roughly the same price.
If I'm nearby (Brasserie Beck is just a few blocks from Metro Center and the DC Convention Center) it might be worth another visit, especially if I'm looking for European-style cuisine.
On a final note, I wasn't sure if there was a dress code, but while most patrons were in business attire, I think that was more a function of downtown DC on a workday. I saw at least one gentleman in a sportcoat and jeans.
Friday, December 19, 2008
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