I stopped at Bistro Blanc for lunch last week, and despite a few minor misses there were enough sparks of excellence that I went back for dinner. I ordered a little less conventionally the second time -- and was rewarded with highly creative fare prepared with a deft touch.
About Bistro Blanc
Glenelg is only a few minutes away from the population centers of Howard County, Columbia and Ellicott City, but due to zoning restrictions the landscape changes suddenly from suburban tract homes to farms and very large houses, though it's not actually rural.
Like Iron Bridge, Bistro Blanc has a wine bar (and liquor store) component, but the trendy modern interior is larger and offers a full menu of contemporary New American dishes.
More Than Just Soup
At most restaurants I get the soup primarily to take the edge off of my hunger, but at Bistro Blanc it's a revelation. It was the velvety smooth Mushroom Leek soup with crispy shreds of leek and a drizzling of truffle oil that convinced me to give the restaurant a second try, as usually there's nothing memorable about this first course.
I deliberately chose the Carrot Ginger soup instead on my next visit to see if it could uphold this standard and it did. The soup again had a velvety texture and was enhanced by the small dollops of flavorful crab meat dropped into the center.
Minor Misses
The Citrus Grilled Shrimp and Chicken Sous Vide on my first visit were respectable and well-plated, but both had somewhat mixed success. While the shrimp was slightly too salty it was the bed of sauteed Swiss chard that it rested on that was far too briny.
But the cheddar grits surrounding them were surprisingly good, with a delicate sweet flavor and firm yet moist consistency that nicely complemented the sherry vinaigrette sauce and chunks of chorizo.
Similarly the Chicken Sous Vide -- prepared at low temperatures in an airtight bag that supposedly locks in flavors and improves texture -- may have been a bit bland, but the dish was saved by the potato gnocchi in sweet pumpkin and truffle jus that accompanied it.
The Second Round
On my return trip I ordered the Roasted Mushroom Flatbread and the Venison entree. The flatbread was more like a pizza than I expected, but in an interesting way. The edges were a touch over cooked (you might even say burnt) but the crust had a light thinly crispy crunch and was a terrific platform for the roasted portobello, carmelized onions, gruyere cheese, and truffle aioli (the last zig-zagged artistically over the top).
The venison was cooked perfectly, with firm yet tender medallions over a bed of grits, green beans, and a sweet sauce. The meat was distinctively different from beef but without the gamy flavor that venison can have if poorly prepared.
Just Desserts
I found the chocolate ganache of my first visit to be well-prepared but unexciting, being a little too close to a high-end brownie. So I ordered the Banana Dark Chocolate Soup the second time, and once again going away from the conventional choice was rewarded.
Banana pieces sporting a thin carmelized cap rested over banana nut bread and blueberries, and a small demitasse of chocolate sauce lay waiting on the side to be poured over everything else. The dessert was both unusual and delectable.
The Verdict
Bistro Blanc's innovative take on good dining is well worth sampling (and somewhat unusual in the central Maryland suburbs). They've created a casual yet upscale restaurant anchored by a fine kitchen, and seem to be working hard to tweak the formula with live chamber music on the weekends and soon, a new bar.
Getting There
Bistro Blanc is just off MD32 on Ten Oaks Road, a mile or two south of the I-70 interchange. From Columbia take MD32 west/north to the Ten Oaks Road exit, cross over MD32 to the west side, and follow the traffic circle around to go back south on Ten Oaks Road. Bistro Blanc is on the right.
Bistro Blanc
3800 Ten Oaks Rd
Glenelg, MD 21737
(410) 489-5440
Related:
Similarly the Chicken Sous Vide -- prepared at low temperatures in an airtight bag that supposedly locks in flavors and improves texture -- may have been a bit bland, but the dish was saved by the potato gnocchi in sweet pumpkin and truffle jus that accompanied it.
The Second Round
On my return trip I ordered the Roasted Mushroom Flatbread and the Venison entree. The flatbread was more like a pizza than I expected, but in an interesting way. The edges were a touch over cooked (you might even say burnt) but the crust had a light thinly crispy crunch and was a terrific platform for the roasted portobello, carmelized onions, gruyere cheese, and truffle aioli (the last zig-zagged artistically over the top).
The venison was cooked perfectly, with firm yet tender medallions over a bed of grits, green beans, and a sweet sauce. The meat was distinctively different from beef but without the gamy flavor that venison can have if poorly prepared.
Just Desserts
I found the chocolate ganache of my first visit to be well-prepared but unexciting, being a little too close to a high-end brownie. So I ordered the Banana Dark Chocolate Soup the second time, and once again going away from the conventional choice was rewarded.
Banana pieces sporting a thin carmelized cap rested over banana nut bread and blueberries, and a small demitasse of chocolate sauce lay waiting on the side to be poured over everything else. The dessert was both unusual and delectable.
The Verdict
Bistro Blanc's innovative take on good dining is well worth sampling (and somewhat unusual in the central Maryland suburbs). They've created a casual yet upscale restaurant anchored by a fine kitchen, and seem to be working hard to tweak the formula with live chamber music on the weekends and soon, a new bar.
Getting There
Bistro Blanc is just off MD32 on Ten Oaks Road, a mile or two south of the I-70 interchange. From Columbia take MD32 west/north to the Ten Oaks Road exit, cross over MD32 to the west side, and follow the traffic circle around to go back south on Ten Oaks Road. Bistro Blanc is on the right.
Bistro Blanc
3800 Ten Oaks Rd
Glenelg, MD 21737
(410) 489-5440
Related:
- Howard County Restaurant Week: Bistro Blanc in Glenelg, MD (3/3/09)
- Bistro Blanc News and Views (blog from the restaurant)
No comments:
Post a Comment