Bayside Ramblings: Howard County Restaurant Week: Bistro Blanc in Glenelg, MD

There are 5 days left in Howard County Restaurant Week.

Go. To. Bistro. Blanc.

I knew that last week was Restaurant Week in Howard County, where I live about halfway between the beltways in central Maryland, but I was too swamped to try some of the special offerings from the local participating restaurants.

On the spur of the moment, I decided to return tonight to Bistro Blanc in Glenelg, MD where I was surprised to find that Howard County, not to be outdone by those big-city slickers, has not one but two weeks in its restaurant week.

I got a meal worthy of a fine downtown DC establishment at half the price.

The Food
Showing them how it's done in the suburbs, Bistro Blanc is offering a prix fixe menu
for the bargain price of $30.08 (and I say that without a trace of irony):

Starter:

Potato Leek Soup
brown butter brioche croutons

Or

Charred Bleu Cheese “Mousse”
pear salsa + crostini + petite greens

Entrée:

Red Wine Braised Beef Short Rib
crisp potato + shaved carrot & baby arugula salad
+ truffle vinaigrette

Or:

Slow Cooked Salmon
spinach black pepper spaetzel + lemon riesling butter sauce

Dessert:

Crème Brulee
vanilla bean + honey tuile

Or:

Chocolate Cardamom & Pistachio Pavé
caramel mousse + raspberry coulis

I chose the charred bleu cheese "mousse"; braised short rib; and the chocolate pave, and it was spectacular. My only regret was that I didn't order soup a la carte on the side; Bistro Blanc is the only establishment where I've ever found the soup to be so noteworthy that it drove a return visit.

The bleu cheese "mousse" was as much a work of art as an appetizer. The crostini in particular was lacy and delicate, and there was a nice contrast between the small block of cheese (which was flavorful without being overwhelming) and the mildly sweet, finely diced pear salsa.

I loved the braised beef short rib too, which was tender and boneless and nicely seasoned without being too salty. The truffle vinaigrette on the arugula salad was again a great, slightly acidic complement, while the fine wisps of crispy potato provided more texture than flavor.

Finally, when the dessert came out it was so beautiful I almost couldn't bear to eat it. (I said almost. I'm not stupid.) The drizzled lattice of carmelized sugar that adorned it reminded me of a Christmas ornament angel, and I loved the caramel mousse underneath the pave. The pave (a term I wasn't familiar with) turned out to be a couple of slabs of dreamily creamy chocolate pistachio fudge.

The Verdict
I'm amazed that a restaurant of this quality and creativity exists in Howard County (or really, anywhere outside of the city). At one time the crab cakes at G&M's were considered fine dining in this area. (I'm kidding. Sort of.)

The meal I had tonight could easily hold its own against many of the best restaurants in Washington DC. Chef Mark Dixon has real talent and an artistic flair and we should be thankful that he chooses to ply his trade so close to home (for me at least).

The only off-note is that the sparkling water I had was a little too seltzer in character, and not worth $6 (unlike the bottle I had at Palena in Washington DC last week, which was a fabulous way to cleanse the palate between courses). But if that's all you can complain about, life is pretty good.

Restaurant Week ends on Sunday, March 8th so if you've even been thinking about trying Bistro Blanc, now is the time. This is an opportunity not to be missed.

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