Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Howard County Restaurant Week: Bistro Blanc in Glenelg, MD

There are 5 days left in Howard County Restaurant Week.

Go. To. Bistro. Blanc.


I knew that last week was Restaurant Week in Howard County, where I live about halfway between the beltways in central Maryland, but I was too swamped to try some of the special offerings from the local participating restaurants.

On the spur of the moment, I decided to return tonight to Bistro Blanc in Glenelg, MD where I was surprised to find that Howard County, not to be outdone by those big-city slickers, has not one but two weeks in its restaurant week.

I got a meal worthy of a fine downtown DC establishment at half the price.

The Food
Showing them how it's done in the suburbs, Bistro Blanc is offering a prix fixe menu
for the bargain price of $30.08 (and I say that without a trace of irony):

Starter:

Potato Leek Soup
brown butter brioche croutons

Or

Charred Bleu Cheese “Mousse”
pear salsa + crostini + petite greens

Entrée:

Red Wine Braised Beef Short Rib
crisp potato + shaved carrot & baby arugula salad
+ truffle vinaigrette

Or:

Slow Cooked Salmon
spinach black pepper spaetzel + lemon riesling butter sauce

Dessert:

Crème Brulee
vanilla bean + honey tuile

Or:

Chocolate Cardamom & Pistachio Pavé
caramel mousse + raspberry coulis

I chose the charred bleu cheese "mousse"; braised short rib; and the chocolate pave, and it was spectacular. My only regret was that I didn't order soup a la carte on the side; Bistro Blanc is the only establishment where I've ever found the soup to be so noteworthy that it drove a return visit.

The bleu cheese "mousse" was as much a work of art as an appetizer. The crostini in particular was lacy and delicate, and there was a nice contrast between the small block of cheese (which was flavorful without being overwhelming) and the mildly sweet, finely diced pear salsa.


I loved the braised beef short rib too, which was tender and boneless and nicely seasoned without being too salty. The truffle vinaigrette on the arugula salad was again a great, slightly acidic complement, while the fine wisps of crispy potato provided more texture than flavor.


Finally, when the dessert came out it was so beautiful I almost couldn't bear to eat it. (I said almost. I'm not stupid.) The drizzled lattice of carmelized sugar that adorned it reminded me of a Christmas ornament angel, and I loved the caramel mousse underneath the pave. The pave (a term I wasn't familiar with) turned out to be a couple of slabs of dreamily creamy chocolate pistachio fudge.


The Verdict
I'm amazed that a restaurant of this quality and creativity exists in Howard County (or really, anywhere outside of the city). At one time the crab cakes at G&M's were considered fine dining in this area. (I'm kidding. Sort of.)

The meal I had tonight could easily hold its own against many of the best restaurants in Washington DC. Chef Mark Dixon has real talent and an artistic flair and we should be thankful that he chooses to ply his trade so close to home (for me at least).

The only off-note is that the sparkling water I had was a little too seltzer in character, and not worth $6 (unlike the bottle I had at Palena in Washington DC last week, which was a fabulous way to cleanse the palate between courses). But if that's all you can complain about, life is pretty good.

Restaurant Week ends on Sunday, March 8th so if you've even been thinking about trying Bistro Blanc, now is the time. This is an opportunity not to be missed.

Related:

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Newseum Exhibits: G-Men and Manhunt

I used my annual press pass at the Newseum in Washington DC to tour some of the exhibits I hadn't seen on my previous visit there: G-Men and Journalists (a collection of FBI artifacts) and Manhunt (about the hunt for Lincoln's assassin John Wilkes Booth).


While neither exhibit is worth a special trip to the Newseum, they are both slickly produced and worthy additions to the overall experience. Of the two, the FBI exhibit is broader and is especially interesting now that the FBI no longer conducts tours of its own building.


G-Men & Journalists
The FBI discontinued public tours of their headquarters building (just 3 blocks down Pennsylvania Avenue from the Newseum) after 9/11 caused an increase in security. Many of the artifacts on display in G-Men and Journalists are on loan from the FBI and have been out of the public eye since then.

It's staged as a collection of about a half dozen of the most famous cases in FBI history, including: the first Public Enemy #1, John Dillinger; the Rosenburg spy cases; the Lindbergh baby kidnapping; the Unabomber; and especially relevant to Washington-area residents, the Beltway sniper shootings that terrorized the DC area in 2002.

Outside of the exhibit are life-size cutouts of J.Edgar Hoover and some famous crime figures. It's interesting to note how short many of them were. Hoover was only about 5' 7" tall.


Some of the artifacts on display are authentic (for example, Dillinger's death mask, displayed outside of Hoover's office for many years; and the electric chair used to execute Lindbergh baby kidnapper Bruno Hauptmann).



Other items are mock-ups made by the FBI to test theories or demonstrate to juries how the crimes were committed. For example, there's a full-size replica of the back-end of the modified blue Chevy Caprice that Beltway snipers John Muhammed and Lee Boyd Malvo used in the killings. The model was built to show the jury how the killers were able to lie inside the car and fire out through the trunk.


Almost by definition the G-Men exhibit is a little grisly and disturbing, as the FBI's mission is to unravel crimes and protect against the darker side of humanity. Oddly though, the artifact I found most unsettling was the handwritten Arabic poem written by Saddam Hussein to his FBI interrogator after the latter had gained his trust, in the months prior to his execution.

Manhunt: Chasing Lincoln's Killer
The Manhunt exhibit on the top floor of the Newseum is based on a book by James Swanson, Manhunt: The 12-Day Chase For Lincoln's Killer. There are many Lincoln-related events this year through April 30 during the 200th anniversary of Lincoln's birth, including the reopening of Ford's Theater after renovation.


I was slightly disappointed by the lack of depth to the Manhunt exhibit, though I learned some interesting tidbits. (For example, the Newseum stands on the site of the hotel Booth stayed in prior to the assassination, the National Hotel.)


Manhunt is billed as a chance to learn about the assassination and the ensuing hunt for Booth in the same way the American public learned it (via newspaper accounts, fed instantaneously from the telegraph for the first time). But somehow the drama of the hunt doesn't unfold in the exhibit, which compresses the chase itself into some summarized panels.

The exhibit does a better job of succinctly telling the story of the simultaneous attacks on Lincoln, Secretary of State William Seward, and Vice President Andrew Johnson. And the photographs of the conspirators in prison, in special manacles that prevented them from bringing their hands together, are oddly compelling.


(They ignored an obvious tidbit, that accused conspirator Dr. Samuel Mudd, who set Booth's leg after he broke it jumping onto the stage after shooting Lincoln, was an ancestor of long-time CBS reporter Roger Mudd.)

The exhibit mentions that Booth was shocked when, after several days on the run, he read newspaper accounts vilifying him for the assassination instead of proclaiming him a hero as he expected. It's never stated as such, but I wonder if this contributed to Booth's determination to fight to the death rather than surrender as his co-conspirators did.

Ultimately there were two exhibits that I think touched upon the raw emotion of the time. One was the picture of the soldier, Corporal Boston Corbett, who shot Booth in the burning barn where he had holed up. I was struck that the nation appeared to regard him as Lincoln's avenger.

The other was a small, pocket-sized photo given to one of the searchers hunting for Booth. The man had scrawled his acid condemnation of Booth all over the picture, leaving only the face exposed and framed in the careful 19th Century handwriting.

The Final Word
Perhaps my desire for additional depth in the Manhunt exhibit is more a matter of my own personal interest in the subject. The Civil War was when the United States came of age, and Lincoln had an uncommon gift for expression that resonates through the ages. I've always wondered how the course of history might have changed had he lived to begin the arduous task of healing the nation.


Overall, both exhibits enhance the Newseum and complement the other displays, with rare historical artifacts that have been seldom or never shown. Both are scheduled to remain throughout 2009.
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Sunday, March 1, 2009

Palena in Washington DC

Last week I also ate at Palena in the Cleveland Park neighborhood of Washington DC, and it immediately became a new favorite with its subtly inventive cuisine, which delighted me with many small surprises.


Palena was founded by two former 1980's era White House chefs, Frank Ruta and Ann Amernick, and though pastry chef Amernick has retired, the food is still stellar. Co-owner Ruta won the James Beard Award for best Mid-Atlantic chef in 2007.

I ate in the less formal section in front (called the Palena Cafe) where you you can choose from both the cafe menu as well as order a la carte from the prix fixe menu served in the formal dining room.

The Food
I wasn't very hungry after eating at Central earlier in the day, but wanted a good cross-section of the food so I ordered the lamb and barley soup; the gnocchi; and the roast chicken, the latter two at the suggestion of the friendly, knowledgeable waiter.

I received my first surprise before any of the main courses even arrived, when they brought out the bread basket with two types of bread. The lighter bread was good but it was the dark bread that excited comment upon my part. The server said that it was pumpernickel-rye-nutmeg, and I think it was this last spice that left an unusual, but very pleasant aftertaste.


When the soup came out it was good, even though I'm not usually fond of the consistency of barley after it's soaked in liquid.


I tried the Yukon Gold potato gnocchi because this is apparently a house specialty that is always on the menu in some form or another. The gnocchi itself was a tad mushier than I like, but the tomato-based sauce had a touch of fennel that gave it a nice twist.


The roast chicken was also very good, with tender meat where the flavor seemed to go all the way through and crispy, salty skin. It was very tasty in a very refined way, though my personal standard for a decadent roast chicken experience is still the small "Fest chickens" barbecued on butane spits in Germany (called Hendls in Bavaria and Haenchen elsewhere).


I was full by this point but had enjoyed my meal so much that I couldn't resist getting dessert, so I chose the cinnamon ice cream with pistachio pound cake. It was terrific, with the ice cream in particular having a nice balance between the asperity of the cinnamon and the underlying sweet creaminess.


The Verdict
I left eager to try Palena again in the near future. I'll probably opt for the Cafe again as I like the option of choosing from the entire menu and you can walk in without reservations, which I understand are difficult to get for the dining room. My entire experience there from the food to the service was excellent.

The truffled cheeseburger was also highly recommended by the waiter, and I'll have to try that on a future visit and maybe the minestrone soup. I might want to experiment more from the dining room menu also.

Getting There
Palena is located literally next to the Cleveland Park Metro Station exit on the east side of Connecticut Avenue. This is a pleasant neighborhood and if you sit at one of the two-toppers in the bay window as I did, you can watch the traffic going by.

They're only open for dinner, from 5:30 to 10:00 pm.

Cleveland Park is one stop up from the National Zoo (which is in the Adams Morgan district, a lively neighborhood known for good ethnic and progressive restaurants and nightlife).
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Saturday, February 28, 2009

Michel Richard's Central in Washington DC

Since I was in downtown Washington DC to attend an event at the Newseum this week, I took advantage of the opportunity to have lunch nearby at Michel Richard's Central, a less formal bistro that is the companion to his high-end French restaurant Citronelle.


I found Central to be very good but perhaps a little too well-mannered in its casual French-American fare. I enjoyed my meal but didn't find it all that memorable, particularly at the price. Later that day I would have a much more inspired dinner at Palena.

About Central
Michel Richard's Citronelle is consistently cited as one of the top 5-10 restaurants in Washington, and in 2007 he opened Central on Pennsylvania Avenue, about halfway between the US Capitol building and the White House.

The space is very modern and light, with a blond wood, glass, and steel decor, and I was seated in a nice location where I could observe the action in the kitchen.


The Food
I decided to try the duck rillettes with faux gras, lamb shank, and french fries. The rillettes and "faux gras" appetizers are a signature dish at Central, with the latter being his take on a substitute for fois gras that uses chicken liver and copious amounts of butter. (Thus avoiding the issue of force-feeding geese to produce the engorged livers for fois gras.)

The rillettes are a cross between duck confit and pate, with the shredded duck combined into a paste that makes it a smooth spread, and served as a molded cylinder.


While I liked both the rillettes and faux gras, it was a little too much for a solo diner. The faux gras especially came in a relatively large container for so rich a spread and I only finished half of it.

I ordered the french fries because some people rave over them, but found them frankly uninspiring. While I'm sure they're fresh cut, I found them to have a consistency that reminded me a little too much of mashed potatoes.

The lamb shank was better, but the polenta it was served over was a little mushy too, and the large sprig of rosemary, while attractive, felt like a bit of a waste. The lamb itself was decent but very light on seasoning, cooked in a style that emphasizes the taste of the roasted meat.


I did really enjoy the peach tonic, an airy, dry-tasting concoction of peach juice and seltzer water with just a hint of sweetness.


The Verdict
I'd be willing to give Central another try if in the area but I probably wouldn't reorder any of these dishes. While everything was well-prepared, it just wasn't all that exciting.

The burgers are actually highly recommended and that might be my choice the next time. Other possibilities would be the onion and lardon (bacon) tart; the pied de cochon (pig's feet meat in pastry); or Michel's chocolate bar (formerly known as the kit kat bar) for dessert.

Getting There
Central has a great, "central" location in the Penn Quarter-Federal Triangle Area. They're two blocks west of the Navy Memorial-Archives Metro Station and close to a large number of federal agencies and attractions, including the Smithsonian/National Mall; the Newseum; the Old Post Office Building; and the FBI, IRS, and National Archives.

More Photos
The weather was beautiful for February, a little overcast but in the upper 50's, so I walked around a bit. The Old Post Office Building is across the street from Central:


The interior has been renovated and converted to shops:


You can take an elevator (actually two of them) to the 12-story tower:


From where you can get a good view of Washington DC:


Though mostly you're looking through plexiglass or wire:


Brazilian churrascaria Fogo de Chao's DC location is also next door:


The FBI celebrated its 100th anniversary last year:


FTC headquarters in Federal Triangle has some 1930's artwork:


Union General Winfield Scott Hancock was one of the heroes of Gettysburg; his statue stands at the exit of the Metro Station:


I never figured out what this building was across from the National Archives:


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Friday, February 27, 2009

Marbury vs. Madison and The US Supreme Court

I went back to The Newseum in Washington DC today for a discussion of a new book, The Great Decision by Cliff Sloan and David McKean, about the seminal 1803 US Supreme Court case Marbury vs. Madison that established the judiciary as the final interpreter of the US Constitution.

The celebrity speaker was Supreme Court Justice John Paul Stevens, but he really did little more than introduce the topic and ask a few softball questions during the talk. His participation was surely a favor to Cliff Sloan, a lawyer, who served as a Supreme Court law clerk under Stevens and was the former publisher of Slate magazine.


The only things really new was Justice Stevens' surprising vehemence that Presidents should follow the example of Presidents Ford and Reagan, who made the trip to the Supreme Court for the swearing in of new justices, as opposed to having them come to the White House. Though largely symbolic, he felt this was part of the respect to the institution as a co-equal branch of government and for the principle of separation of powers.

Nonetheless, the conversation was engaging and provided a lot of insight into the charged political atmosphere and personal rivalries that surrounded the Marbury case. It also became clear that Chief Justice John Marshall was the driving force who shaped the Supreme Court into the institution that it is today.

Background
On the surface, Marbury vs Madison was about whether a lame-duck appointee to the federal judiciary by the outgoing administration of one party (President John Adams' Federalist Party) would be seated by the incoming Republican administration of President Thomas Jefferson.

But landmines abounded in the case. Marshall himself had been Secretary of State under Adams and a staunch Federalist, and the 1800 Presidential Election resulted in chaos, with the Federalists voted out of office and the electoral college tie between Republicans Jefferson and Aaron Burr decided in the House of Representatives. The nation teetered on the brink of collapse.

Due to an overlap in his positions, in February 1801 Marshall actually simultaneously served as both Secretary of State and in his new role as Chief Justice of the Supreme Court. In the former role he was personally and directly involved in the rush to issue the lame duck appointments, handling much of the paperwork and responsible for it being served to the appointees.


The judicial appointments were an attempt at packing the judicial system with Federalists; 16 new circuit courts had been established in the waning days of the Adams administration, and candidates were hastily appointed to these positions and 42 others at literally the final hour.

In the crush, Marshall was unable to deliver all of the appointments, setting the stage for the conflict. Jefferson personally stopped the delivery of the remaining letters of appointment, and William Marbury sued to get the job of Justice of the Peace for District of Columbia.

Though under modern rules Marshall would have been required to recuse himself, under the conditions of the time the only mandatory criteria for recusal was personal financial interest, which did not apply.

A Messy Political Situation
The judiciary was still controlled by the Federalists, and it was widely expected that the Court would rule in favor of Marbury and other similar Federalist petitioners. The new Republican Congress suspended the Court for almost a year, through most of 1802.

Complicating the situation, it's not clear that Jefferson would have complied with such a ruling. The Federalists had rammed through the Alien and Sedition Acts of 1798, which sought to suppress criticism of the federal government and protect the country against foreign agents during a period of conflict with France.

The Federalist-dominated judiciary had upheld and enforced the Acts, which many argued were unconstitutional, and so the judicial branch was considered highly-suspect when the Federalists were swept out of office.

In a final twist, Jefferson and Marshall were distant cousins who hated each other. Author Sloan asserts that this was in part because Marshall revered George Washington (having been at Valley Forge with him), and Jefferson was viewed as disrespectful to Washington. In any event, their personal animosity was clear.

The Ruling
So if the Court upheld Marbury's appointment, Jefferson could simply ignore it; and if it ruled against Marbury, the Republicans would be seen as having scored a political victory.

In this super-charged environment Marshall skillfully delivered a ruling that dumbfounded the observers of the day, and is viewed by many as one of the great decisions that firmly established the rule of law.

Marshall ruled that:
  1. Marbury was legally entitled to his commission.
  2. The law required that the government enforce this proper appointment.
  3. But, the Supreme Court did not have jurisdiction in the case because the Congressional law giving it jurisdiction was unconstitutional.
Thus Marshall, who wrote the opinion, was able to criticize Jefferson at length for his actions -- and then nullify the decision while ruling on the constitutionality of a law of Congress. And he did it in a way that was at least nominally self-denying, thus cleverly pulling the fangs of critics.

The Impact
Marbury never got his appointment. But the ruling firmly established the Supreme Court as the final interpreter of the US Constitution, a principle called judicial review, which Marshall explicitly states in the decision:

It is, emphatically, the province and duty of the judicial department, to say what the law is.

According to the Great Decision authors, most newspapers simply published the decision in full without comment. The ruling would send Jefferson into tirades for the rest of his life, as he disagreed with the principle it established.

By giving up a small tactical issue, Marshall was able to win on the much larger question of whether the Supreme Court could review the actions of the other branches, a precedent that would set the case for the many critical cases Marshall would oversee in his 34 years as Chief Justice. He would consistently rule in a manner that strengthened the central government in disputes with states, establishing the power of the federal government.


Miscellaneous
With Marbury vs Madison, Marshall also enforced a new tradition within the Supreme Court, the practice of joint opinions. Previously, each of the judges would issue an individual opinion in each case.

Because of the force of Marshall's personality and his winning, genial demeanor, he was able to strongly influence the Court and wrote the majority opinion in the most important cases.

The Venue
The discussion was held in The Freedom Forum, an associated conference center on the back side of The Newseum. The room held perhaps 300 people, of which about 50 seats were reserved for Annual Press Pass members of The Newseum (the rest were largely occupied by members of the sponsoring organization, The Freedom Foundation, or by The Supreme Court Fellows program).



It's an opportunity to hear and participate in discussions with a highly-interested, learned group. One of the audience members who commented extensively was Maeva Marcus, Director of the Institute for Constitutional Studies and Research Professor of Law at The George Washington University and editor of a book on the predecessor to the Marshall Court, The Documentary History of the Supreme Court of the United States, 1789-1800.

But I'll be selective about attending events due to the extensive travel time required for me.

Other Trivia

  • Marbury vs. Madison was issued in the lobby of Stelle's Hotel. Justice Samuel Chase had a painful case of the gout and was unable to walk to the Supreme Court's offices, so in order to have a quorum Marshall moved the Court's sessions to the boarding house where the Justices were staying. Stelle's was located on either the current site of the Supreme Court or right next to it.
  • Marbury vs. Madison is highlighted in the Rotunda of the National Archives building, where the original Declaration of Independence, US Constitution, and Bill of Rights are displayed.
  • According to Sloan and Stevens, when Stevens was first appointed to the Supreme Court in 1975 and moved to Washington DC, he was asked for his occupation on his voter registration form. Stevens wrote, "Justice." The man taking his application looked at him and then said, "Last week we had 'Peace.'"
  • The session moderator got a perhaps unintentional laugh when, in introducing Justice Stevens, he stated that he had ruled on 112 cases regarding freedom of expression since 1975 -- "24 of them in the majority."

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Sunday, February 15, 2009

MetroMint Water At Whole Foods Market

I had no idea that Whole Foods Market is a cult phenomenon. The first time I ducked into the store, it was simply because it was near my Albuquerque, NM hotel and I needed to pick up some fluids to drink (the dry air and altitude there dehydrate me quickly).


I was surprised to see that the grocery seemed to specialize in organic foods and had many unusual products. By the end of the week I was addicted to mint water, returning a couple of times to pick up more bottles.

Mint Water
Though it sounds weird at first, MetroMint water is surprisingly refreshing with a variety of subtle mint flavors and no sugar. I tried the spearmint, peppermint, orange, and lemon waters. The chocolate mint seemed a little too strange to me, but a colleague said it was actually the best, so I'll have to get it next time.

They use natural mint oil and reverse osmosis water for a very pure, refreshing sensation.

Cassava Chips
I also picked up a bag of cassava chips which had a mild ginger seasoning (cassava is a relative of the potato but supposedly has more fiber and cooks up with a different, firmer texture). They were very good and noticeably less oily than potato chips.

All of the bags looked like they were about to burst, however. I speculated that they were filled at sea level and then expanded at Albuquerque's 5,300 foot elevation.


I didn't have the opportunity to eat the chips while in town so I opened a small hole to release the pressure before taking them on the airplane.

About Whole Foods Market
Whole Foods started in Austin, TX as one of the first large natural foods markets. They now have almost 300 locations in the US, UK, and Canada, and I like not not only their organic orientation but that they have a lot of unusual foods and brands.

Unfortunately, the nearest stores to me are at least 45 minutes away, so ironically I only go when I fly 1800 miles to New Mexico.

However, a Safeway near my home carries MetroMint and I'll have to make a special stop to get some. It's not cheap at about $1.50 a bottle, but it's a small luxury.
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